26 FEBRUARY 2026 – WAXHAM, NORFOLK
John’s Landrover Discovery was
away at the dealers awaiting spare parts, so it was a Volvo SUV courtesy car
that was providing the transport on this trip, though Mike was unable to join
us on this occasion.
We’d decided that a trip to the
Norfolk Brecks would be the most suitable venue, but it wasn’t until we were
about an hour or so into the journey that John brought up the prospect of
revising our course in favour of trying for a Glaucous Gull and an Iceland
Gull, which had been seen at Waxham on the east Norfolk coast, the previous
day. It was some distance away from the Brecks, but since neither of us hadn’t
seen either species for quite some time (19 years for the Glaucous Gull and 21 years
for the Iceland in my case) it wasn’t really such a hard decision to make,
although of course, neither gull was guaranteed.
Finding an actual road to Waxham
beach was quite an achievement, but eventually we took a narrow road near
Waxham Barn, which led to a sandy lane where several cars were parked, and
where a couple had just returned from taking their terrier for a walk along the
beach, and provided us with the relevant info of how to get where we wanted to
go. A sandy track through some trees, eventually led to the beach and a
substantial sea wall, but there was no sign of any birdwatchers, so we just
made our way right along the sea wall, following the coastline on a long line
of enormous rock groynes, where John picked up what appeared to be birdwatchers
in the far, far distance, where gulls could be seen whirling around the beach.
It looked promising, so we continued below the sea wall, but it took an
absolute age to reach the birdwatchers - indeed it wouldn’t have surprised me
to learn that we’d walked a couple of miles; it certainly felt like it.
There weren’t many birds around,
mostly Black-headed; Herring; Lesser and Great Black-backed gulls; with a lone
Great Crested Grebe out on the sea; but arguably more interesting were the huge
herds of Grey Seals - several hundred strong at least, virtually the entire
length of the beach, lined up above the tide line amongst the groynes - which
we were certainly not expecting.
The seals comprised both bulls
(some of which were huge beasts) and cows, although the smaller ones could well
have been pups; but the varying colours of their mottled coats in all hues of
black, brown, grey, ginger, and off-white was surprising. And something else
came to the fore too……………the stench from the seals was simply acrid in the
extreme, though luckily the breeze took the effect away to some extent. Most of
the seals happily accepted close encounters with us humans, but some were not
so, and slowly galumphed away to the safety of the sea as we passed.
By the time I reached John - who
was a considerable distance in front of me most of the time (as I was
struggling with an ailing hip and my Nordic stick as support) he gave me the
news that neither Gull had been seen (the other birdwatchers had already been
at the site most of the morning with nothing positive to report). We waited
around for a while before we turned back, but at least we’d learned that one of
our intended venues - Lynford Arboretum in the Brecks - was apparently
extremely quiet bird wise, so that made us feel a tad happier at choosing to
come to Waxham instead; but not by much!
In the meantime, whilst scoping
the sea for birdlife, John found a flotilla of twenty or so Common Scoters,
though they were very distant and were continually disappearing under the swell,
though hardly compensation for missing our gulls I admit.
On the way back - the prospect of
another torrid two-mile walk back along the sea wall wasn’t in the least
inspiring - I was looking out to sea, when I heard a shout from John, and
turned around to see him pointing desperately to the skies, so I knew in my
heart that he’d seen the Glaucous Gull, but of course, by the time I reached
him, the bird had disappeared! John tried to re-locate the gull, taking a steep
flight of steps to the top of the sea wall, to scan the surrounding fields,
with nothing positive to report other than seeing five Red Kites. But he
remained somehow convinced that the gull would likely return to the original
site on the beach, and was eventually proved correct, when by chance he scoped
the bird perched on a signpost off in the distance. Luckily for me it stayed in
situ long enough for me to get a good enough view through John’s scope, before suddenly
it wasn’t there anymore. Elation was the order of the day for a while - though
more so for John who had the best view initially as it flew in from the sea
over his head!
We decided in vain to try looking
for Common Cranes on fields around Hickling Broad, although we did see a couple
of Cattle Egrets and a lone Little Egret in fields aligning the winding road. We also tried for Purple Sandpipers on the
rocks at Sea Palling further north along the coast, without success due to the
high tide.
It was getting late in the
afternoon by then, so we decided to head for home, taking in a welcome
cappuccino on the way. It hadn’t been an especially remarkable days birding,
but there was no argument that getting at least one of our target species was
some achievement given the circumstances. But I confess, the Grey Seals made
the day for me, despite their odour!
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